Surfing A.U.S

Australia and Surfing go together like Gary Glitter and ..... his outfits.

Nick and John are both well into their surfing and already I was up for a trip to the beach. However when we checked the weather the swell was too big and the wind was blowing the waves over.

We decided to have some food, whilst eating this bloke walked across the window and I caught a glance at his face. 4 seconds later realised that it was Dan from University, thinking Alan Partridge I was about to shout over "Dan.... Dan.... Dan...... Dan..... DAN....... DAN......." but I didnt need to cos it turned round and went "Alright Si, what you doing here?"..

Anyway the cruxs of the conversation went blah blah blah.. computers.. blah and you wanna come surfing tomorow?

So that was it tomorrow was supposed to be better and we didnt even go out due to the excitement of surfing on Sunday. Saying that the World Cup is now on between 11:00 and 5:30am which keeps messing things up...!

After waking up later than expected and after we checked AquaBumps (surf website) we set off for Bondi Beach. Its a bit chilly in boardies outside but after walking to the beach, renting a wetsuit and board we were ready.

The waves looked pretty big and every so often a much bigger wave would hit. I put on my footstrap and we waded out... pretty much straight away the task in hand was not standing on the board but just being able to lie on it and also duck through the waves, duck through, jump over what ever it takes not to get sucked under and becoming like clothing in a washing machine.

After about 10mins, I was knackered and still hadnt really got out too far.

After an hour, I came back in. This surfing lark is much harder than I was expecting.... the problem is just getting out there and then feeling comfortable moving around the waves...

We went back and in and this time I chose to stay in close...

I managed to get to Dan, John and Nick to then go for a wave and get wiped out by two consecutive waves ..... they managed to properly dump me to the bottom and I also lost a contact lens in the event...

However I continued on and managed to half get up before losing balance. The funny thing is that you are paddling and using your arm muscles to get out to the waves and then you're there and you think, "Right thats it got out, brillant". You paddle to catch the wave, you catch the wave... then you try and lift yourself up and your muscles go "Yeah right mate.... you just made me haul you all the way out to sea, paddle to catch the wave and you want me to do WHAT! I ain't getting you on to your feet...." and so you fall off.

So that was that we went back in and I thought, surfing is amazing, hard but well worth it. Plus as someone said to me you've never see a fat surfer!