So finally plucked up the courage to go out again. This time borrowed John's board (a mini mal - for the beginner) and made my way down to the beach.
Surfboards arent the lightest and after 20mins walking to the beach my arms were killing me but I ran in, got taken out by a couple of waves and eventually made my way out past the breakers.
The waves were nice and small 1-2ft... though when laid down on the board they look pretty big. It must be really funny watching a beginner as all you do is fall off, there can be no wave insight and I managed to falloff even while lying down. I am pretty sure I heard a couple of surfers laughing after my 6-7 fall .. but hey we all had to start somewhere.
Looking around, I noticed that most of the surfers were sitting on their board... you've got to look cool and relaxed so I thought I would try and follow suit. Its not as easy as it sounds, you kind of get the balance right for maybe 1-2 seconds and then suddenly the board starts to capsize and there is nothing that you can do about it. I gave up and thought it best to try and catch a wave.
My first wave of the day was a corker, I actually caught the wave well and was so happy about it that I lost concentration and the board nose dived into the wave and I went over the top.... after a sec or two of being spun round I climbed back on the board and paddled back out.
This happened a few times, though I did manage to catch a wave properly and make it all the way in... this happened once. The amazing thing though is that if you get one wave thats all you need to keep you fired up and you dont mind getting dumped a few times.
And that was my surfing effort - part two.
